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Canoe Voyage: take two

Updated: Aug 1, 2023

Part of a series of posts in which I explore some of the fascinating travel journals which have lain previously unread in the archives, as well as my own journals which reflect those of my fellow travellers of times gone by. Come with me as I travel beyond the stores and out into the wilds...


 

Well, sometimes you find that life just keeps on giving...


Sometimes, just sometimes, you find that the archives can surprise you by yielding up not only what you hoped to find but what hadn't even crossed your mind as a possibility.


I know from bitter experience that the opposite is so often true - something which looks very promising from its description in the catalogue (probably from a high dose of wishful thinking) is actually nothing of the sort and turns out to be a just damp squib.


I'd completed my transcript of the wonderful little notebook "Log of the Gnat" recording the canoe expedition undertaken by William Egerton Garnett Botfield in the summer of 1867, along with his two younger brothers and his father. I had just about finished off exploring and researching all the various different aspects from this which had piqued my interest. Before drawing a line under this, I decided it was worth having a quick check of the other records included in the collection, just in case there was anything else relevant.


From the description I'd given the accession I wasn't expecting much. The rest of the material consisted mostly of the diaries of William, the author of the Log of the Gnat, written over twenty years after the trip he took when he was eighteen. It does include some other travel diaries, recounting local camping trips and some continental travel which I may return to at some point as I guess they might be worth investigating in their own right. However, they are not relevant enough to my research on the 1867 canoe log to warrant spending time on right now.


The only document listed as being contemporary with our diary was a volume described as "Verses 1866-1880" so that was really the only one I was looking out for as I went through. But just before I found that, I picked up a small hard-covered volume and opened it at a random page to check its contents. The word "canoe" jumped out the page at me.


Exciting... what was this?


Turning to another page, I spotted the words "Rob Roy". Well I never!


Turning back a few more pages, I came to a heading: 'August 1867 Monday 16th "Canoe Voyage"'.


It seemed like I had unexpectedly discovered a second account of those few days spent canoeing on the canal. It turns out that the young William was not the only one to record his experience. This time it was his father, the Reverend William Bishton Garnett Botfield, who had his version of the experience to share with us. The volume had been listed as simply "Diary, 1841-1842" but it turned out to include this later account. Well, you know, there's not time to turn every page when you're recording new accessions...


I wasn't wrong to be excited though, was I?


Discovering the second account of our "Canoe Voyage" [SA9509 Diary of William Bishton Garentt Botfield]

I'd gleaned every bit of information I could from the Log of the Gnat, piecing it together with other information I was able to find online about the family and anything I could dig out relating to canoeing in the UK around that period (see Log of the Gnat - who, when, why and how) as well as all the places William mentions in his account (see Log of the Gnat - where (let's go!)).


I haven't yet read through the Reverend's account, as I want to do it properly and transcribe it as I go through, so I don't want too many spoilers. However, I couldn't resist just checking the reference to Rob Roy I'd spotted earlier. I was desperate to know more about the circumstances in which they had acquired their four canoes, although I felt almost certain it would have something to do with John MacGregor and the book he had published the previous year "A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe". But I could only surmise. Or so I thought.


Lo and behold, I found Reverend William telling me that he (referring to himself in the third person) had indeed read Mr McGregor's book, and "was so tickled & pleased with the idea that he ordered a canoe for himself with which he was so much delighted that he procured one for each of his sons & finally determined to follow tho' at a humble distance the example of the owner of the Rob Roy & to make in company with 3 of his sons a canoe voyage."


So there it was in his own words. I was correct in my assumptions. Not rocket science really but all the same it was wonderful to have found a manuscript in which Reverend William himself so precisely confirmed my suspicions.


Book of Verses


Before moving on to look at this second account of the canoe trip I just want to say something about what I found written in the slim lined notebook which turned out to be the book of verses mentioned on the accession record. It was quite unusual for something like this to be precisely dated but quite a few of the verses had a date given with them, spanning from 1866 to 1880. I was keen to look through for any dates which coincided with the canoe trip and sure enough, before long I came across one dated August 24th 1867, the day they returned home. Under the heading "The Canoeists Song" were written four verses which the trip had presumably inspired William to write.

Notebook of verses 1866 - 1880 [SA9509]

Elsewhere in the book I spotted "Extra Verses to Paddle your own Canoe", which was no doubt William's own contribution to the popular music hall song of the time which had clearly been a favourite accompaniment to their trip. I had discovered all about "Paddle Your Own Canoe" when researching the William's journal, see Log of the Gnat - who, when, how and why.


The other event that came to mind was the death of William's mother, which I knew had occurred only six months earlier, in February 1867. William was clearly writing his own poetry at the time, and the notebook contained numerous verses on other subjects, mostly referring to various "Valentine"s, who he had presumably hoped to woo in this way. Was there a chance that he had expressed his grief at his mother's passing through the same medium?


Sure enough, I turned the page to find "In Memoriam S.G.B.", in honour of his mother, Sarah Garnett Botfield. The number of words crossed out or underlined only serve to intensify the sense of a young man struggling to adequately express the trauma of losing his mother at such a young age.

But let us move on to happier times, new family memories being made on the canal in that summer of 1867, surely a most welcome distraction from the inevitable feeling of being "Deserted & Forsaken". We can be in no doubt however that, underneath all the revelry, William, along with the rest of the family, would still have been grieving for his mother Sarah, who "made my earthly home For me an earthly heaven".


So here is the account of Reverend William Bishton Garnett-Botfield.


Let's see what he has to say about those five summer days spent out on the canal with three of his sons, each with their own canoe...


August 1867

Monday 16th

"Canoe Voyage"


"Parva Cane"


Indeed it is quite true!


Why, he is over 50 years of age: I don't care: He went. By rail? Not by rail: any one could do that: I tell you he went into Cheshire in a Canoe on the Canal. No-o!


It's a fact. Well then, let me know all about it. For once then I will become a "Historian" & as many by the great events of ancient & modern times have been chronicled & now furnish amusement & knowledge to the present generation so shall this celebrated voyage be recorded to the benefit of those who

in times to come when luxury & effeminacy may have debased our youth, may feel their spirits stirred as they read the exploits & adventures of their ancestors & catching a spark of the manly vigour that swelled their hearts may in a moment of enthusiasm rush to the water & Paddle their own Canoes.


[Wow, and I thought I was overly bigging it up! Obviously we're both doing it tongue in cheek to a certain extent. It is only a local trip along the canal for a couple of days after all. Although I totally agree that there is something about heading out on a canoe which stirs up a sense of adventure and the fact that we were both drawn to record our expeditions in a journal only adds to the sense of drama. I certainly don't see it as an exclusively manly pursuit though! I guess I have my answer as to why the girls weren't invited.]


I need not draw attention to the fact that the mightier movements whether morally, politically, geologically or scientifically have been originated by some simple cause or created thro the zeal or enterprize of some one earnest minded individual. Was the laxity & degeneracy & want of manliness which

characterized the flippant reign of the 2nd Charles caused by His unkingly example.


Were the Freedom & Liberty of Britain secured to the descendents of Mr John Bull by the Brilliancy of Bright & the brawling of Beales. Were [struck through: the towns of Pompei & Herculaneum entrusted in their ashy covering by] the great continents of America & Australia & the Islands of the Pacific produced by the little insect that forms its coral bed in the sea.


Was that mighty power which now enables us to travel with lightning speed over land or water & creates wealth for thousands the result of a puff of steam from a kettle even so was the desire

to move in solitary & self dependent satisfaction in a canoe which would have gladdened the heart of Robinson Crusoe, brought into action by the thrilling narrative & attractive style which marked the writings of one who had in his tiny boat penetrated the recesses of German ???? & brightened the flora of Scandinavian fields & whose name when he was at home was McGregor. But the long & the short of all this is that a Gentleman ???? having read the Voyage of the Rob Roy Canoe by Mr McGregor was so tickled & pleased with the idea that he ordered a canoe for himself with which he was so much delighted that he procured one for each of his sons & finally determined to follow tho' at a humble distance the example of the

owner of the Rob Roy & to make in company with 3 of his sons a canoe voyage.


The canoes were obtained & each immediately put into commission. The worthy gentleman elected himself Commodore & hoisted his flag in the "Butterfly". His eldest son was appointed to the "Gnat" as Captain , his 2nd to the "Bee" as Mate & this third to the "Gadfly" as "Cook" for which he was eminently fitted as he was fond of good things.


It was no doubt an anxious moment for the Commodore when having his whole fleet afloat at the rendezvous he began to consider whether he should take it. He therefore called a Council of War at which it was determined to sail for Cheshire as soon as the fleet could be conveyed to the Canal which

descended into that fertile plain known as the Vale Royal of England & whose inhabitants are proudly called the "Chief of Man". The destination being decided upon a very serious question arose as to how the fleet was to be conveyed to the water - for between the lake on which it floated & the Canal there were some ten miles of hard road.


Many were the plans which passed thro' the fertile mind of the Commodore & deeply did he tax his ingenuity & skill. For a time he seemed almost to despair but at last it was evident to those round that he saw his way thro' his difficulties, for his face beamed with a pleasant smile of intelligence & his mind was

at rest. It is reported tho' this wants corroboration that he uttered the word "Eureka" "I have found it" but whether this be true or not there is no doubt whatever that upon being asked if he had discovered a plan, he simply replied to his enquirer "Jack ass". The very thing said the Capt, That'll do said the mate, Oh Jolly said the cook, so all being agreed it was determined that the jack ass should convey the fleet to its port of departure. This he effected in gallant style & on Monday morning August 16th the canoes rested on the bank of the canal at a place called Gnosal, waiting the arrival of their crew, stores & provisions. These arrived at about 11 o clock, were got on Board, the crews manned

their respective vessels the commodore hoisted his flag in the Butterfly which example was immediately followed by the commander of the rest of the fleet, at a word their Paddles flashed in the sunshine & to the exceeding wonder of the astonished natives & with the approving smiles of the fairest faces of shropshire, the canoes rapidly proceeded on their voyage. For an instant the crew of each vessel turned to reply to the farewells which were waved from the Bridge & then set to work with a will. The whole fleet was in excellent spirits. The Capt of the Bee was so invigorated that he could not help exclaiming in his ecstasy "This is grand" This is ___ words failed, language could not express his delight. On they paddled sometimes trying to increase their speed by hoisting sail but the wind was light and baffling & the evidence the Paddle was the

thing. It must not be supposed that no attention was paid to the passage of the canoes on their journey. Men in the fields at labour rushed to the Banks to see the unusual sight, little children cheeped huzza & the Commodore was much amused at one man who seeing the fleet approach after satisfying himself that it was real became much excited & tossed his arms wildly about shouting Mrs Mrs Mrs eh Mrs come here, come here, yo never seed such a soight in your lafe, come alung our wench, come along. Accordingly Mrs made her appearance & as soon as she saw what was to be seen, she lifted up her hands in pleased amazement & was quickly joined by a big girl & a ???? & as they all lifted up their hands & spread their fingers their appearance had something so ludicrous about it that the Commodore ordered

the Fleet to heave to & hold a little pleasant discourse with the good dame & finding that she dealt in ginger Beers he ordered the crew to liquor all round & they proceeded on their voyage.


[We're half way through the account already and they have only got half way through the first day of their trip!]


About 2 o clock they landed & proceeded to lunch, the cook procuring some water from a farm house hard by, the occupier of which a nice farmer like old lady came out to see the canoes & called most lustily upon her niece to come & see the sight. The Commodore with his accustomed gallantry invited the young lady to get into his canoe but she was afraid of a ducking & so wisely tho' playfully declined. At last toward evening & having passed 5 Locks they arrived at the Victoria Wharf where the canoes were placed in a warehouse for the night. The Crews proceeded to the

old town of Market Drayton famous for the prowess of the great Lord Clive & now well known for having been the place where Govr. Eyre was brought before the Magistrates on a charge of wilful Murder but Mr Baldwin Leighton & his fellow magistrates steadily & boldly refused to commit upon such a charge a gentleman who to the best of his ability had tried to do his duty. The town also is noted for Gingerbread. Arrived at the Corbet Arms, the Crew had some difficulty in getting anything to eat. The manager, a buxom and confidential lady, related how some Cricketers had nearly eaten them out, however at last some Ham and Eggs badly done were procured & the Crew soon retired to rest & slept soundly notwithstanding a heavy thunder-storm & the trampling of customers in the Bar who were keeping The Wakes & had been to a review

at Pelwall. In the morning great was the difficulty to get breakfast. The same old ham which had done duty the night before was brought out again, the coffee was so thick that it would not come out of the spout & altogether the impression produced by the Hotel was not of a very favourable description. Off they went to the Wharf & were soon under weigh & went merrily on to the first Lock. Here the canoes were placed on a canal boat & on it passed thro 5 Locks in the first instance & 15 a mile or so further on at Audlem. On the Canal Boat the steerer was a little girl named Mary Ann, poor thing she could neither read nor write but could manage a canal boat famously. All her knowledge was confined to canals, she had been to London but did not know either the towns

passed or the counties but when they asked "How she went to London she said First you go thro so many locks & then so many many more & the summit of her knowledge was that when you get to London if you did not mind you would stick on the mud as there was there what was called a Tide the same as at Liverpool. After leaving Audlem Locks the canoes again took to the water & with a spanking breeze astern spread their sails & went at a great pace thro the water, 5 more locks & then a run to the Basin End at Nantwich. This place which is distinguished in all parts by the name of "The Town" was the birth place of the Commodore so it was determined to stay for an hour & take a walk thro its streets. The Commodore had frequently mentioned the fact that in this

town the men always walked with their hands in their pockets a fact which any one may test for himself but the reason for it is not so easily explained. The Commodore seemed to think it betokened a kind of sturdy independence & that the Hand was placed in the pocket either to relieve a friend or then doubled up to resist a foe. A keen spirit of Inquiry has always marked the character of the female sex of this old town & they have always been famed for a desire to acquire information & also for a spirit like that of the maid of Saragossa, for it is told how that when once the town was attacked by a band of Welshmen, when the men of the place were about that then in their extremity, the women of Nantwich poured boiling water out of the salt pans on the foe and saved the town in honour

of which deed a poem was written which thus alluded to it -


"The Nantwich women did combine and saved the town with scalding brine." Of this desire for intelligence the Commodore had now a pleasing instance. At the door of a shop was a handsome equipage. On its being driven away a lady of some summers standing, with angular features & sparkling eyes immediately came to inquire to whom the carriage belonged & who was in it & having satisfied upon these points, she still was anxious thoroughly to inform her mind & with rather a softened expression of face said to to [sic] the shopman "What did she order?"


The Commodores eyes twinkled as the spinster put the question & he afterwards called the attention of his crew to this craving for knowledge which distinguished his townswomen & calculated that not even by electricity could

information be so quickly disseminated as by the garrulous tongue of a Nantwich maiden.


Off again, & after a paddle past Acton the Fleet was housed for the night at Barbridge warehouse, the Crews walking to Haughton Hall where they were most hospitably welcomed. The next day was to be the extent of the trip but the whole fleet looked to it with pleasure as it would see them in the midst of many friends. Accordingly they got under weigh and had not proceeded far in the direction of Bunbury before it became evident that their arrival was expected & the crews were apprized by cheers faintly heard in the distance that their approach was observed. Soon Boys were seen arriving on the towing path & on catching sight of the

canoes rushing back in a frantic & excited manner. It soon appeared that they ran back to acquaint others of what they had seen & on turning a bend in the canal there appeared a large concourse of Boys & many of the old Bunbury folk assembled to welcome their old friends. Cheers loud and hearty burst from the crowd as the canoes paddled swiftly to the Lock & drew up in line to salute the Commodore as amid the boisterous enthusiasm of the Boys of the Aldersey Grammar School & other friends we went gallantly to the front - & then there was a shaking of hands & a greeting of the warmest description. The canoes were placed at the disposal of the Boys who enjoyed themselves for some time in paddling about till one more unlucky than his ??? was capsized into the

water when orders were given to put the Boats ashore & a move was made to Bunbury where the Commodore visited the grammar school. He & His sons were received with deep marks of affectionate regard & after a few words to the Boys to induce them to try to be good honest men, & to do their duty in their several stations with a Xtian [Christian] spirit & a manly heart. All present knelt down & the Commodore offered up a prayer to the Author & giver of all good things that He would be pleased to send His blessing upon them, would teach them the right way & enable them to follow it & so he departed with his heart full of gratitude that he had again seen the old school & that it was still prosperous.


They returned again to Haughton & after a trip to Rhyl, they set out on their return. Market Drayton was again the resting place for the night but owing to a letter from the mate to the buxom manageress, when the crew

arrived a good dinner was ready which was treated as was Governor Eyre, that is, it had justice done to it.


The next day after a steady paddle The fleet returned to its port of departure where all were greeted by the smiling faces & cheering welcomes of affectionate friends & relatives. The voyage was pronounced by all to have been most successful & gratifying & all looked forward with pleasant anticipation to the time when they again might "Paddle their own canoes".

 

Well, what can I say? I feel I have now properly met with Reverend William! And there is perhaps not much more to say than that. I did have it in mind to further explore some of the remarks made about the wider world in the Log of the Gnat, to get more of a flavour of the political allegiances and opinions of our first author, the younger William, and this has certainly given me more to go at on that front. But for now, I will simply leave us to absorb the evocative words of our new narrator.

 

Discover more in my other posts:


Log of the Gnat - full transcript: travel back in time and read first hand the account of eighteen year old William as he records his excitement at undertaking his first canoe trip, back in the summer of 1867.



Log of the Gnat - who, when, why and how: find out more about William and the rest of the crew, the type of canoes they might have had and what might have spurred them on to undertake their expedition back in the summer of 1867


Log of the Gnat - where (let's go!): discover more about the places our Victorian canoeists visited on their journey and be inspired to follow in their wake...



Journeys past and present: musings of an archivist: find out about how I came to discover the "Log of the Gnat", as well as other travel journals, and how they have intertwined with my own travel adventures.


Loch Shiel Loop by Canoe: read about my own highland expedition in our Old Town Discovery Canoe that inspired me to research the "Log of the Gnat".



Discovery Log - where it all began: join me as I travel back to 2006 when our canoeing adventures began - and we had five to a boat!




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