Part of a series of posts in which I explore some of the fascinating travel journals which have lain previously unread in the archives as well as my own travel journals which reflect those of my fellow travellers of times gone by. Come with me as I travel beyond the stores and out into the wilds...
I can still recall the feeling of excitement and anticipation when we took the plunge and invested in our very own Canadian canoe, the Old Town Discovery 158. It was on Saturday 15th July 2006 and we'd decided that our best option was to buy it from a local boat shop in Shrewsbury, situated in Frankwell alongside the River Severn. We'd looked at the second hand options and come to realise that they did not seem to lose their value as these did not go much cheaper than you could buy new for. This helped to spur us on as we reassured ourselves that we could always sell it again if we decided it wasn't for us. That makes me smile as here we are seventeen years later, still enjoying finding new adventures for it to carry us on!
We were also spurred on by the fact that we had booked to return to Sunny Bank Farm for a week at the end of July. Sunny Bank Farm is a beautiful house up in the Lake District which our good friends had discovered and invited us to join them at. The land included in the rental led straight down to Coniston Water and in fact it included the use of a rowing boat so that we could get out on the water. The thought of returning that year with a canoe to take out on the water was definitely an appealing one. If we were going to buy one we needed to do it before we went back up to Sunny Bank so we finally dived in and made our purchase just a week before were due to go. We got a good deal with buoyancy aids and paddles included although I think it was still a fairly substantial investment for us at the time.
Kate, Heather and Alex (then called Tom) were only eight, six and four at the time. We were more than a little apprehensive about the wisdom of putting this most precious of cargo into a small vessel and launching out onto the water. We decided to send Robin and Kate out first, to bravely test the waters so to speak, out on the Severn. We waved them off at Frankwell from where they would paddle with the flow of the river down to Atcham where we would drive to meet them, about five miles away.
The following day, on the Sunday, we decided to head out to Lake Bala, daring to put the whole family on board this time to start our adventures proper. It was a beautiful sunny and calm summer's day and I clearly wasn't the only one to feel excited. I have this wonderful bit of video I took that day from my seat at the front of the canoe...
We did, indeed, own a boat!
I can well recall the sense of adventure I felt at having entered unexplored waters, both literally and metaphorically. A whole new experience and the prospect of many new adventures opening up before us!
And just like our fellow canoeists from 1867, it was this sense of adventure that led me to record what I also called a "log" of our voyages. I recorded it in a Word document which I named "ShipsLog" (as there were no spaces allowed in those days remember). Just like my predecessor I went for the cliched but perhaps inevitable take on naming the "crew" in traditional naval style. My reference to "natives" was clearly inspired by Swallows and Amazons which I'd taken to reading to the children, based as it was on places around Coniston, Peel Island, just across the water from Sunny Bank Farm, in fact being Wild Cat Island.
Having enjoyed a week at Sunny Bank with the canoe, we thought long and hard about where we could take it for our week long family holiday. It was interesting to look at maps from a totally different angle, searching out waterways where we could explore from a canoe. We soon came to the conclusion that a return trip to the Lake District was in order. My log of 2006 records the week we spent camping alongside Lake Windermere, my final entry in this particular log fact. It wasn't until 2010 that I took it upon myself to record an outing on the Discovery in words rather than just photographs, when we canoed along the River Wye, our first multi-day trip. I must try and dig out that notebook sometime.
So here are my notes just as I recorded them back in that magical summer of 2006, with a sprinkling of photos that I took at the time. It has certainly given me a wonderful warm glow to put this post together, I hope you enjoy it too.
Saturday 15 July 2006
1pm.
Old Town Discovery 158, our very own beautiful Canadian canoe, bought from Shrewsbury Marine Services, along with 5 paddles, 5 buoyancy aids and some floating rope, all ready for action…
The crew:
Captain Robin
First Mate Kate
Second Mate Sal (chief cook and provisions master)
Able Seaman Heather
Ship’s Boy Tom.
3.45pm.
Discovery’s maiden voyage: River Severn.
Launch site: just downstream of Shrewsbury weir.
Weather: Clear, still and very hot.
Crew:
Captain Robin
First Mate Kate.
6.15pm.
Disembarked at Atcham.
Met by Nearly Second Mate Sal, Hoping to be Able Seaman Heather, and soon to be Ship’s Boy Tom. Access to river over stile, across field, down steep dusty slope and across muddy embankment. Able Seaman Heather and Ship’s Boy Tom had a quick try out in shallow water, before sheep and cows arrived to investigate. The 3 youngest crew members then held off herd of sharp horned bullocks using paddles for defence whilst Captain and Second Mate carried the Discovery ashore.
Home for clean up and sustenance. Maiden voyage declared a success!
Sunday 16 July 2006
Weather: Clear, still and very, very hot.
The Discovery’s full complement of crew headed to Lake Bala in North Wales for some still water to allow all members of the crew to have a go.
Haulage: Left 10am arrived Bala 11.30am.
Launch: LlanGower 1.30pm (after picnic lunch on shore).
LlanGower is about half way along southern shore of Bala. The Bala lakeside railway stops here. Free parking. Access to shore over kissing gate and railway to shingly beach.
Then followed 5 hours of fun, adventure and happy canoeing!
Able Seaman Heather a bit unsure at first (“I don’t like it!”, I want to go back”) but was made to stay on board and soon found her sea legs (“I don’t like it… I love it!”).
Explored along south shore, heading to north end of lake. First stop at Harebell beach - deserted promontory with field edged with wildflowers, including hundreds of harebells. Lots of lovely shade under trees.
Crew couldn’t resist taking to the water for refreshing dip, except for the Captain who took the opportunity for a solitary paddle. Ship’s boy fell into water so we all decided put our swimming stuff on and get right in – fantastic! Crew happily marooned for a while until persuaded to be rescued by the Captain, just as natives landed.
Next, headed right up to tip of lake, but beach at end looked a bit desolate so headed back along north shore until reached Llanuwchllyn, which was awash with noisy natives. Investigated the campsite for potential camping/canoeing weekend. Ideal spot but too many natives! Long walk to reception/shop for supplies of ice lollies then quick get away.
Continued along north shore looking for own private beach to enjoy ship’s supply of croissants and chocolate spread. Soon found great spot but crew couldn’t resist taking to the water again to cool down – even the captain was persuaded to eventually join us for a swim! Chocolatey croissants were very yummy then reluctantly boarded ready to return across lake to launch beach.
Before reaching the beach the captain suffered a mutiny after First Mate Kate spotted a beach with tyre swing from large tree which we couldn’t resist. Captain realised resistance was futile!
Eventually reached launch beach but couldn’t resist another swim before very reluctantly having to load up canoe for return journey.
A most excellent day was had by all, all crew members showed themselves to be able seaman and we can’t wait for further exploration and adventures on the Discovery…
22-29 July 2006
CONISTON WATER
Base: Sunny Bank Farm, Torver, nr. Coniston
Sat 22 July:
Arrived at Sunny Bank Farm, for week with Jenny, Richard, Daniel (10), Kieran (6), Dave, Clare, Ben (6) Sam (3), Andy and various other people who came and went… The house has direct access to Coniston Water, down across a couple of fields. Also a boat house and rowing boat. Decided to launch Discovery further along the shore where access easier and also fun to arrive by canoe. Captain Robin dropped off and launched solo at Brown Howe, about a mile south of Sunny Bank (pay and display car park and loos). Made own way up to Sunny Bank beach taking a bit of an explore around via Wild Cat (Peel) Island. Discovery made its home next to the boat house for the week.
Sun 23 July:
All went out on boats – rowing boat, inflatable and us in our own lovely Discovery, (certainly the star in my opinion!), with Andy swimming. Headed over to Wild Cat Island and moored in the Secret Harbour - magic! Swam, paddled and explored, even found treasure (geocache). Picnicked on look out point next to harbour. Kate attempted to swim round island with Jenny and Daniel but aborted to shore when realised how far it was and I carried on with them. Perfect camping place in middle of island, can just picture those Swallows and Amazons camped up there – wish we could do the same!
Mon 24 July:
Dry day – walked up on Torver Common. Captain went out on Discovery on return?
Tues 25 July:
Discovery play day! Messed about on lake shore, testing out Discovery for cap-sizing, buoyancy of canoe and children… Doesn’t sink but too low in water to bail and recover if out of depth (need to investigate buoyancy bags).
Weds 26 July:
In search of Octopus Lagoon… hoping to find at south end of lake (Allan Tarn). Travelled with the two rowing boats and Andy and Clare swimming. Stopped at Wild Cat for picnic, paddle and hide & seek. (Beautiful little yacht moored at north end – future possibilities…??) Then headed south down east shore - great looking bays, but all inhabited – including pirate ship!
Long paddle (about an hour) down to south end, crossed to west shore for rest and snacks before leaving Andy for well-earned rest and continuing south. Time against us but headed down into mouth of river (River Crake). Just about to give up when spotted the river opening up to a lagoon - complete with lily pads and house boat (bird hide?) – we’d found it!!! Headed back happy with wonderful views ahead to Old Man and mountains. Gave the inflatable a tow back.
Thurs 27 July:
Land day – had to concede to one small trip in car to start of walk up Old Man. (Me and Heather made it to the top together, Kate ahead with the others – Jenny, Kate and me had refreshing swim in the tarn on way down…). Barbecue on beach to finish great day.
Fri 28 July:
Final day on Coniston (till next time at Sunny Bank…). Paddled over to opposite shore, Second Mate stayed by shore with Able-Seaman Heather, Ship’s Boy Tom and ship-wrecked Sam, while rest of crews headed off into forest to climb up the hill for view back across the lake. Sinking sun and preening swans.
Sat 29 July:
Reluctantly strapped the Discovery back on roof rack ready to head home. Time to start planning next trip….
When have full crew, usual positions are as follows:
Captain Robin - rear seat, chief steerer and paddler
Second Mate Sal – front seat, second paddler and look-out
First Mate Kate - third paddler and on-board entertainment (flowerpot)
Able-seaman Heather - occasional fourth paddler
Boy Tom – shares flower-pot seat with Heather.
Moves like a dream on the water, so peaceful even our full crew of tiny tearaways sit contentedly in her most the time! Just as well, as Discovery can get a bit rocky if don’t sit still…
13-19 Aug 2006
WINDERMERE
Base camp: Khyam tent at Low Wray NT camp site.
Haulage: Discovery on roof rack, tent in trailer, with two bikes on top (Captain’s and First Mate’s).
Sun 13 Aug:
Set up camp at Low Wray. Excellent canoeing base – on shore of Windermere with own beach. [Some lakeside pitches in Ransom’s meadow – cost £5 extra per night and limited spaces. Arrivals only taken 1pm-8pm but if want lakeside probably need to arrive earlier and queue.] We opted for pitch next to play area which had its own benefits, although fairly lengthy portage required to launch. Lake looked choppy – at least blowing into our shore though.
Mon 14 Aug:
Fine day, less windy, although still breezy. Launched Discovery onto Windermere with crew of two – Captain Robin and First Mate Kate – to test the waters. Arranged to meet in Ambleside on opposite shore, rest of crew going by car planning to load with bulk supplies, although this didn’t work out and wished we’d all gone by Discovery, Second Mate Sal resolving to travel by canoe from now on….
Discovery crew explored north shore before heading up river (River Rothay) towards Ambleside centre. Managed to meet up in Rothay park and for pizza lunch in Ambleside.
Captain Robin did return trip to Low Wray solo (First Mate Kate a little tired) – met on camp site beach.
Tues 15 Aug:
Finally all managed to get out on Discovery! Peace at last as headed out onto Windermere, with full crew and well-stocked picnic, complete with Trangia and hot chocolate. Headed south down west shore.
First stop in little cove with rocky headland – where First Mate Kate discovered Tim’s Throne (great look-out post) and secret supply of blackberries and bilberries. Picnic on beach. A bit cool and started drizzling – first time so far in Discovery when not fine and warm!
Second stop Bass Rock. Hot chocolate all round and short walk up shore to geocache find. Cold and damp by now so decided to head back to camp.
Solo portage undertaken by Captain back to camp, guided by Second Mate Kate.
Weds 16 Aug:
Wonderful Wednesday - best day of holiday!
Weather warmer and still.
Full crew on-board, headed round north end of lake, exploring all tributaries.
First into tranquil lagoon just to north of campsite. Then headed up into first tributary (Blelham Beck) – dark and murky and very overgrown, but felt like real explorers. Made our way as far as we could until eventually met fallen tree right across the beck. Returned to open water – quite a relief!
Continued along north shore, past Brock Crag, Seamew Crag (was going to claim this as our own but on close inspection already claimed by the swans so unsuitable for picnicking…). Came ashore at Gale Naze Crag (later discovered this is the Swallow’s Peak of Darien!) – row of boathouses in the bay. Great spot but after quick exploration, decided to relaunch and move on. This area has restricted landing according to Windermere access map so probably wouldn’t be very relaxed due to threat of native trouble.
Next headed up River Rothay and then detoured into tributary off west bank – River Brathary. Open water at first but when reached bridge became too shallow to proceed further. Saw kingfisher while returning to lake (maybe same one Captain and first Mate reported having seen on Monday…).
Headed a bit further up River Rothay and then came ashore on shingle beach on east shore, which Captain and First Mate had spotted as potential picnic spot on Monday. After landing, First Mate Kate and Able-seaman Heather explored meadow while rest of crew settled in. Sun came out and had a picnic feast of tortillas with loads of fillings, including refried beans warmed in Trangia!
Able seaman Heather and Boy Tom paddled while rest of crew swam in river. First Mate Kate found the cold water meant she needed a hand getting back so rescued by the Captain, but both had life-jackets on so no harm done. Second Mate loved the swim - two herons landed nearby to watch. Then had washing-up frisby fun in river. Wonderful Discovery picnic magic!
Headed on round past Waterhead Bay and landed on beach to north of Holme Crag. Dried out, drank hot chocolate and found geocache.
Finally, back up to Waterhead Bay for drinks by lake at Waterside Inn, Discovery moored at jetty amongst historic Windermere steam boats.
20 minute paddle back across lake to Low Wray.
An excellent day out on our wonderful Discovery!
Thurs 17 Aug:
Recovery day – crew took a rest from paddling in preparation for planned long-haul expedition to Windermere. To exercise legs Captain Robin went on early morning long-distance run and swim in tarn, later First and Second Mates headed off for trek up to Latterbarrow.
Fri 18 Aug:
Expedition to Windermere.
Managed earlier start – launched just after ten! Dry start after heavy rain in night. Felt like early morning as headed out onto tranquil lake with low mist cloaking the hills.
Headed down west shore to Bass Rock. Rain returned. Sheltered under trees along shore – rain got heavier. Crew agreed on pressing on to Windermere, waterproofs on.
Went past islands – must explore when not so wet! – and arrived in heavy rain and very wet at Bowness. Found small bit of shore suitable for landing by boathouses (found out later had landed right in Rio!). Sheltered in LakeView pub, changing into dry clothes and having a good lunch – emerged 3 hours later!
Captain and First Mate collected Discovery and picked up rest of crew from beach by tourist launches.
Headed up east shore in search of Steam Boat Museum – found small jetty and beach and headed in. Discovered the real Amazon, the boat that inspired the Swallow, and Captain Flint’s houseboat (the Esperance) – pure magic!
Continued up along east shore. Hit by torrential rain when long way from shore, a bit hairy but crew stayed calm! Came in closer to shore for long wet haul back north. Brief stop to check geocache location but we’d gone too far north. Finally arrived back 6ish, very wet but all well, having survived our expedition!
Next time, must pick a fine day and leave as early as possible (c1.5 hours paddling required each way), so time to explore the islands (also Nat Park Visitor Centre at Brockhole with adventure playground and café which we didn’t make it to this time).
Sat 19 Aug:
Rain continued heavily all night and the next day. Packed up and headed off – but may be back again as great Discovery camp!
Postscript
Although I didn't continue my log beyond that first summer, I did record in a notebook the three day trip we took on the River Wye in 2010. This was in fact the only multi-day expedition we made by canoe all together as a family. I must look that out sometime.
I didn't keep another canoe log until the Loch Sheil Loop expedition Robin and I have just completed, which at the time of writing (July 2023) is the only other multi-day multi-person trip we have made in the Discovery. This time however we took barrels instead of children, it being a bit too much of a squeeze to fit all of us in these days!
That's not to say that we haven't spent many a happy hour paddling out on the water in the Old Town Discovery, as well as the rest of the flotilla of vessels we came to own. We have since expanded our fleet to include two sit on top kayaks and just this year Robin has increased the fleet again to include a sea kayak.
These other boats are all designed for one person and so have enabled us to enjoy "paddling our own canoes". We first branched out in 2008 getting our Nomad FeelFree sit-on-top and it still remains the boat which is most popular among us for casual boating (as long as you don't mind getting your backside wet). We took this along with us on our River Wye trip so we didn't all have to cram into the Discovery (the kids kept getting bigger!). We referred to it as the speed boat, with the Discovery being the old bus. It was great at going steady, carrying lots of cargo and keeping you dry.
I may not have kept a written record of all our journeys, life's just too short after all and there is too much doing to be done rather than recounting. I have taken plenty of photos though so here's a small selection from the many happy times we have spent paddling our canoes since the time we made that leap of faith back in 2006.
Discover more in my other posts:
Loch Shiel Loop by Canoe: read about my own highland expedition in our Old Town Discovery Canoe that inspired me to research the "Log of the Gnat".
Journeys past and present: musings of an archivist: find out about how I came to discover the "Log of the Gnat", as well as other travel journals, and how they have intertwined with my own travel adventures.
Log of the Gnat - full transcript: travel back in time and read first hand the account of eighteen year old William as he records his excitement at undertaking his first canoe trip, back in the summer of 1867.
Log of the Gnat - who, when, why and how: find out more about William and the rest of the crew, the type of canoes they might have had and what might have spurred them on to undertake their expedition back in the summer of 1867
Log of the Gnat - where (let's go!): discover more about the places our Victorian canoeists visited on their journey and be inspired to follow in their wake...
Canoe Voyage - take two: find out about my surprise discovery which opened up a whole new perspective on the canoe trip of 1867.
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