Part of a series of posts in which I explore some of the fascinating travel journals which have lain previously unread in the archives as well as my own travel journals which reflect those of my fellow travellers of times gone by. Come with me as I travel beyond the stores and out into the wilds...
What follows is a full transcript of the "Log of the Gnat", given alongside an image of each page from the original manuscript notebook [Shropshire Archives 9509/4/3].
This means you too can have the pleasure of transporting yourself back in time and reading the words of the young William Egerton exactly as he wrote them, as he diligently recorded each day of the expedition he undertook with his father and two younger brothers, back in the summer of 1867.
If you look carefully, you can see the words
"LOG OF THE GNAT" scratched into the cover of the pocket-sized notebook which William used.
LOG OF THE GNAT
W E Garnet Botfield Decker Hill Shifnal Salop Capt. Commanding the “Gnat” Canoe
Monday August 19th 1867
“In my little lark I glide Swiftly o’er the silent tide”
What is to be the programme for the hollidays? [sic] By all means let us have a canoe trip. Such was the decision of the Revd WB Garnett Botfield seconded by his three sons in the midsummer vacation of the year of grace 1867. Where shall we go? We will not be very ambitious at first & so we will go to Haughton, Cheshire by the Canal. No sooner said than
done. The canoes were ordered to be got ready, & to Rendevous at Gnosal Bridge to take in stores & provisions & to be ready for their Crews. The fleet consisted of the Butterfly, bearing the flag of Comodore, The Revd WBG Botfield. The Gnat, Captain WEGB. The Bee, Capt. ASGB. & the Gadfly Capt. WDGB. As pretty a squadron of vessels as ever were launched.
Great was the excitement on that eventful Monday morning. What with packing kits & stowing away provender & the bustle of the departure. The Crews seemed as if they would exhaust all
their strength before they were fairly underway. Punctually atime the Carriage was at the door laden with the kits, crews & the ladies who were to go to see the embarkation. After a beautiful drive of 6 or 7 miles the starting point was reached. The luggage was then stow on the Canoes, provisions taken in crews at their stations, & after a hurried leave taking, & amid the well wishes of our friends & the delight of the good people of Gnosal who had assembled on the bridge, the Comodore hoisted his flag & duly followed by the fleet dipped his paddles in the water, & with a cheer, we
were off with a spurt, just for the show of the thing. After a few hundred yards we fell into a long steady stroke shot through the railway bridge in fine style. As soon as fairly warmed to the work I began to notice the beautiful scenery through which we were passing. We were on very high ground, & passing along an embankment & could see the country for many miles round. The Lilleshall woods with the monument, the distant range of the Stretton & other Shropshire hills, the Wrekin all alone on the plain, the smoke from the iron & coal works, all continued to make
a striking picture & one wh[ich] any man might well be proud to say belonged to his native land. “The stately homes of England” “amid their tall ancestral trees” the more humble but not less dear “cottage homes”. The fields of ripening corn & bussy [sic] life of the mining district bore a ready token to the prosperity of the land – the land of liberty, the mistress of the seas, the land we are proud to call our own. Such a scene may well inspire one with confidence in the nation spite the ranting of Beals & the croaking of those who declare we are declining. True, we cannot point to armies like those of France
and other continental nations. But their troops are the fruits of a hard enscription, ours though few in numbers compared to theirs are yet soldiers from choice & animated with a love of country wh[ich] in defeat or success will keep them as it has ever done from disgrace.* [* Besides we have the finest naval force in the world & a splendid army of citizen soldiers who may be relied on in case of foreign invasions.] But such things are not the account of the canoe trip. A good favourable breeze springing up the fleet steeped [sic] their masts & set sail. The crews lying luxuriously back with just an occasional stroke to keep the boat right. After a few miles of this open view, we entered a deep cutting wh[ich] lasted for some distance. One would not have thought to have found
such a charming spot on a canal. The canal was spanned by numerous bridges of great height & the rocky sides of the cutting were covered with ferns, young trees & creeping plants, the coup d’oeil being of really great beauty. Soon after leaving this we lunched on the bank. The old lady from whom we procured our jug of water was in a great state of excitement, & must needs fetch her daughter to admire the fleet.* Refreshed by our meal the command was given to re-embark.
[* And in truth all along the water the canoes caused much astonishment and amusement where ever they were seen. Frequently such exclamations as they cried Lookee hear [sic] misses, look at them ere boats or I say Bill did you ever see such things as them ere & ce.]
Soon after we passed a train of barges towed by a steam barge which through out a great swell & caused our tiny
craft to dance about in a most lively style. Nothing of remarkable character happened for some time & the canoes sailed placidly on till we were brought to a stop by the first set of locks we had met with. After a council of war the canoes were taken from the water & carried by the crews for about half a mile to the clear water below. It was the hardest work of the day & as the sun seemed to have had an extra poke at his furnaces we were very warm when we set off again. However we went on till about 6 we came to the Victoria Wharf where the
canoes were taken out, cleaned and put in a shed for the night. While this operation of stowing away was going on the Capt. of the Bee was sent into the town of Market Drayton to secure beds & supper. When the rest of the canoes [sic] arrived at the Inn we found that the good people of the town had been celebrating their wakes, & we had hard work to get anything to eat. But at last we had a good supper of ham & eggs. I say good because it was good in quantity if not in quality. After a strole [sic] & a look in at the Billiard rooms, we popped into bed highly delited [sic] with our novel cruise.
Tuesday August 20
We rise with the lark And from daylight to dark We do what we have to do.
Up early & as soon as breakfast had been successfully negotiated we set off for the canoes. Found them all right after their night’s rest. Set off. About two miles in we came to two sets of locks close together & to save the trouble of carrying the canoes we placed them on a barge wh[ich] by lucky chance was passing and went down the locks by this new mode of travelling. The sensation was most curious
& the people of the boat were rather characters. They knew of nothing that was not connected with the canal. After we got to the bottom of the locks (there were 20) we set our sails & with a favourable breeze went merrily on. The country though not as beautiful as that wh[ich] we saw on the first day, was still ful [sic] of interest & the deep green of the Cheshire county was a contrast to the more greyish tint of Shropshire. About noon we came to two more locks & again were fortunate enough to find a barge. At these locks we had a glimpse of Nantwich church & at the bottom we
lunched and enjoyed much [sic] some very good pies bought at Market Drayton. While lunching our old friend the barge which had brought us down the long line of lochs passed & we gave the people on board what we left of our pies. After luncheon we sailed on & presently the wind became very strong & the gnat was nearly capsized & was compelled to take in sail. Though by this she had to pull more yet the change was by no means unpleasant & she had no difficulty in keeping
up with the sailors. We crossed the Nantwich Aqueduct in grand style & a little further on we put the fleet up at a wharehouse & went into the town. There we did some shopping & had a glass of soda & then went back to the canoes. We soon got to Hulstone reservoir, the seen [sic] of numerous former fishing excursions. Passing this we soon came to Barbridge Wharehouse where the canoes were cleaned & piled on some fine cheeses & we had a pleasant walk over the fields to Haughton Hall where we found all well
& dinner ready. After a pleasant evening the Capts of the Gnat & Bee were told to occupy the green cottage for the night. The inhabitants being at the sea side, the house was empty, but we made ourselves very comfortable & were soon sound asleep. We enjoyed the journey down very much & had no accidents but arrived in capital condition & fit for twice as much more work. There was plenty of excitement too. The various changes of country & the passing numerous barges who generally gave us a friendly greeting & perhaps a little chaff. In fact the best fun we had had this year.
& is all forgot? All schooldays’ friendships? I say no
Wednesday August 21st
After a lazy morning we lunched & then set of [sic] for Bunbury, walked down to the Wharehouse for the canoes, & paddled off. After a quick passage we reached Bunbury Locks amid the cheers of over a hundred Bunbury Boys who had come to have a look at the craft. Of course they wanted to get in & they were indulged. & for about an hour were paddling up and down the canal in high glee. Our yong [sic] gentleman
in his eagerness to enter the Gadfly made a false step & got a good ducking. The canoe was overturned but as all stores had been left behind at the wharehouse no harm was done. From the Canal we drove to the school where we heard some very good singing. The boys gave us an enthuseiastic [sic] reception and showed they had not fallen of[f] for their singing was as good, if not better than of old. Their singing of the hymn “They will be done” was really well done & had a deal of genuine feeling in it. Some other
pieces were very well rendered especially the glee “The bells of St. Michaels Tower”. After prayers at the school we went to Mr Davenport’s where a chair was presented by his old parishioners to the Rev the Comodore. It was made from lime wood from the Church & is very handsome. After this & after complimentary greetings with old friends we embarked again in the canoes & had a pleasant paddle back to the Wharehouse & then a walk over the fields to Haughton then dinner talk & bed.
Thursday August 22nd
This day was devoted to an excursion to Rhyl to see some of the Haughton party who had gone there. We started soon after breakfast & calling at the Old Rectory left Beeston station by the train. Safely arrived at Rhyl we found all well & had a bathe some luncheon & a stroll & then came back & drove up to Haughton trouling [?] our song “Paddle your own Canoe”.
After dinner the crews, accompanied by Capt & Mr Garnett must need prove their valour in murderous assaults o sundry wasps’ nests. The first was a very large one & was taken in gallant style, the Comodore handling the spade & the Capt of the Bee the deadly squib with commendable pluck & skill. The next nest was a failure as Capt. Garnett in his exultation at having already captured one of the evening’s strongholds
must needs indulge in some perhaps elegant but certainly injudicious trips of the light fantastic toe, just over the heads of the sleeping sentinels & with perfect justice got jolly well stung in the small of the back for his pains. The garrison being thus alarmed the Comodore gave orders for some straw to be thrown over the nest & set fire to & numbers of the unhappy insects perished in the flames. After this the gallant crews returned to look after the wounded & in time the gallant Captain’s groans eased & all went to bed.
Friday August 23rd
“If a hurricane rise in the mid day skies And the sun is lost to view Go steadily by with a steadfast eye And paddle your own canoe”
Up early, kits packed, fresh stores & provisions laid in, hearty breakfast, walk down to the canoes & off for the homeward voyage. Everything being ready the Comodore gave signal to start & away we went. We paddled on merrily as far as the aqueduct, where the
Haughton party met us to see the fleet in travelling order. After half an hours talk & exhibition of the craft adieux were said & away we went, paddling strongly against a nasty head wind wh[ich] caused us to be hard at work the whole way. At the pair of locks (mentioned before) the canoes went up on the water as the water had to be lowered for a down coming barge & a pretty bumping there was, but we got up all safe & piped hands for lunch.
Scarcely had we done when a tremendous storm of rain came on & wet the crews considerably so that the rain stopping & a barge coming up, they were glad to pile the canoes upon it & spread the sails &c to dry. The barge being empty we went along at a great pace, & were not long in getting up to the top of the long line of locks where the canoes were launched & away we paddled keeping well ahead of the boat wh[ich] had carried us
& reaching the Victoria Wharf any distance ahead. Here we again placed the canoes in their old quarter & went to Market Drayton & as we had written forward for beds & supper we found everything ready & had a bath & general tuck in & sat a while after reading & so to bed. This was the only wet day we had & we found that it was only very little in convenience & that half an hours sun set all to rights again.
Saturday August 24th
“And sweet the morning breezes flow” While thus in measured time we row
Our last day. Well there’s no use of making a fuss about it although I should have liked to have had a month more, so lets get breakfast and be off. All ready we started through the same beautiful scenery which we had the first day of our trip. But it seemed not to be the same. The difference in going one way & then the other
was very marked. We got up the locks all right, but this time without the friendly help of a barge. We had to carry the canoes up hill for half a mile & terribly hard work it was, & very hot. But it was over at last & off we set, with a clear course before us all the rest of the way home. We had however the wind in out teeth the whole way & so could have no help from the sails. In fact it was the hardest
days work of the week, but it was none the less enjoyable for that. In the cutting we spent some time in collecting ferns for the fernery at Decker Hill & the Capt. of the Gnat brought a fine young oak tree to be planted as a memento of the trip. It is now at Decker Hill & perhaps in future generations Macauley’s New Zealander may look on its ancient branches & think of the old wooden walks of England.
Soon after leaving the cutting we landed & again renewed our acquaintance with the glorious pies of Market Drayton. Having satisfied our inner men we launched out again & with a long steady stroke set out on the last stage of our Journey. Nothing further happened of any interest & we arrived at Gnosal Bridge at about 5. We had some time to wait there until the carriage came up, during
which time the Gnat, Bee & Gadfly went to examine a tunnel hewn out of the solid rock (a little further on than Gnosal) & through which the canal passes. Soon after getting back to the other Bridge the carriage made its appearance & we received the congratulations of our friends for our successful trip. The canoes were un-laden & got on their carriage & the crews rapidly born to Decker Hill
after one of the most enjoyable weeks they had ever spent.
For my own part, I have to return my best thanks to the Comodore for the very pleasant cruise wh[ich] I have enjoyed under his command and can only wish that next year I may enjoy as merry a time & that the experience gained on this trip may make succeeding voyages equally enjoyable & that amid new scenes & greater excitement I may remember the pleasant time of my first canoe cruise.
To conclude I can say that a canoe trip even on a canal, is one of the pleasantest modes of spending a little spare time. After a hard term of work & cricket at S. Leonards the change was very acceptable. And I would advise Mr B Disraeli & Mr Gladstone, next summer vacation to try if a little paddling would not improve their statesmanship, for it seems that one might apply appropriate
to a canoe trip the words of the Tea total song “It guideth the heart, it cooleth the brain It maketh the weak man strong again”.
Not that I mean to imply weakness to either of the illustrious men I have named but I can wish that amid the cares of office they may spend a week of as hearty enjoyment & healthy recreation as was
spent by your obedient servant
W E Garnett Botfield
Captain of the “Gnat”
Canoe
The Canoeist song
Off in my* little bark, light as air
Swift through the water, free from care
Dashing through shallows oer rock and stone
My trusty canoe & I alone.
Where the still waters no current stirs
Or where the breeze onward my light craft spurs
Or when the swift torrent whirls me on in its flight
All the same my heart beats with a thrilling delight
["our" crossed out]
& the joy as my paddle gleams bright with spray
As I urge my boat onward, away, so gay.
No trammels all freedom, my heart free & light
As I sail my canoe from morning till night.
And when the day's over how sound my repose
No sluggard or dandy such sleep ever knows
And I wake in the morning o'er the waves so blue
To paddle again in my staunch* canoe.
*["old" crossed out]
1867 Canoe Trip Aug: 19 to Aug: 24 Decker Hill.
Gnosal Bridge.
Market Drayton.
Nantwich.
Rhyl.
Haughton & C.
Related posts from the adventures of an archivist:
Log of the Gnat - who, when, why and how: find out more about William and the rest of the crew, the type of canoes they might have had and what might have spurred them on to undertake their expedition back in the summer of 1867
Log of the Gnat - where (let's go!): discover more about the places our Victorian canoeists visited on their journey and be inspired to follow in their wake...
Journeys past and present: musings of an archivist: find out about how I came to discover the "Log of the Gnat", as well as other travel journals, and how they have intertwined with my own travel adventures.
Loch Shiel Loop by Canoe: read about my own highland expedition in our Old Town Discovery Canoe that inspired me to research the "Log of the Gnat".
Canoe Voyage - take two: find out about my surprise discovery which opened up a whole new perspective on the canoe trip of 1867.
Discovery Log - where it all began: join me as I travel back to 2006 when our canoeing adventures began - and we had five to a boat!
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